I’m a fan of Serious Eats’ chemistry- and science-focused approach to cooking. Indeed, their recipe development and testing are second-to-none (Sorry, America’s Test Kitchen’s annoying and unwatchable Next Generation.) Sadly, this sweet potato fries recipe didn’t really stand up to their irreproachable and well-deserved stellar reputation.
The fries weren’t bad, but it’s just really difficult to make good fries at home in the oven. They were really good, for what they were, but I strongly endorse deep-frying fries. They are called “fries” for a reason, after all.
Please try the recipe, though, because it may just hit your sweet spot. And do try the dipping sauce, which is quite good.
Note that the Feral Cooks have also made these sweet potato fries.
What you’ll need for the seasoned salt
- 1.5t Diamond Crystal kosher salt
- 0.5t sweet paprika
- 0.5t garlic powder
- 0.25t cayenne
Wha to do for the seasoned salt
Whisk all the ingredients in a small bowl. Set aside until the fries are done.
What you’ll need for the optional dipping sauce
- 0.5 cups mayonnaise (fake mayo, for vegan)
- 1T ketchup
- 1T sriracha
- 2t white wine vinegar
- 0.5t garlic powder
What to do for the dipping sauce
Whisk all the ingredients in a small bowl. Set aside until the fries are done.
What you’ll need for the fries
- Cooking spray
- 2T tablespoons neutral oil
- 0.75 cups (180 ml) water
- 3T cornstarch
- 3T white rice flour
- 0.5 baking soda
- 2 12-ounce sweet potatoes, trimmed, cut in half crosswise, and cut into 0.5-inch-thick sticks
What to do for the fries
Put an oven rack in the lowest position and begin heating the oven to 425°F. Spray a rimmed baking sheet with cooking spray. Add the 2T oil to the prepared sheet and tilt the sheet until the surface is evenly coated with oil.
In a large microwave-safe bowl, whisk the water and cornstarch, making sure no lumps of cornstarch remain on the bottom of the bowl. Microwave, stirring every 20 seconds, until the mixture begins to thicken, 1 – 3 minutes. This is actually to make a batter to coat the fries. Remove from the microwave and continue stirring until the mixture thickens to a thin yogurt-like consistency. Add water a teaspoon at a time if the mixture is too thick.
Add the rice flour and baking soda to the cornstarch mixture and whisk it well to combine. Add the cut sweet potato sticks and toss until each is evenly coated. This part of the recipe is a bit of a disaster, as the batter doesn’t really evenly coat all the fries. You’ll end up with glops of batter, which doesn’t taste bad, but it just doesn’t work that well to coat the fries evenly. Transfer the fries to the prepared baking sheet, arranging them in a single layer with one flat cut side down, and space between each piece.
Bake until the bottoms are beginning to brown and the fries easily release from pan—about 20 minutes. Remove the sheet from the oven and, using a thin spatula, loosen the fries and carefully flip them, taking care not to tear them. Rotate the pan and return it to the oven to continue baking until the second sides are golden brown, about 15 more minutes. When the fries are done, move them to a paper-towel-lined platter and sprinkle the seasoned salt over them. Let them cool for about 5 minutes before serving them with the fry sauce, ketchup or mayo.
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